When the call went out for what fabric to choose for my latest blog make I was spoilt but I’ve been on a mission recently to find more green fabrics. I love green but I don’t have many green items in my wardrobe or have much green in my stash.
So I was really pleased to spot a gorgeous forest green linen style fabric. It’s called 'ramie' which is basically like a linen but I think it has more structure to it. It’s not a drapey fabric and while it’s not quite as heavy as a jeans weight denim I would say it’s definitely on the heavier side of a medium weight fabric.
I immediately knew what I was going to make, which is pretty good for me as I suffer from major indecisiveness when it comes to deciding on a pattern versus fabric!
While I’ve already made the dress version, I have been lusting over the Marilla Walker Roberts Collection Dungarees for ages after seeing some gorgeous versions, including by my fellow Crafty Blogger Dani (@pocketortwo).
The ‘trouser’ version of this pattern has two styles, one being a dungaree and the other a jumpsuit. I knew this fabric would be absolutely perfect for the jumpsuit version. The end result has turned out perfect and just what I had envisaged.
The pattern features a V-necked button down front with capped sleeves. There are front pleats in the trouser leg to give a teeny bit of shaping, although the legs are pretty relaxed. They taper in slightly towards the ankles and are designed to be worn with a turn up. And of course there are pockets!
I usually range between 3 sizes on most patterns with the bust being the smallest, then waist then hips. Although the style is described as “oversized and baggy with a dropped waist/crotch and all over roomy fit”, I stuck to my usual principle of grading between these 3 areas.
I cut out a size 4 top (38” to 39” bust), graded to size 5 waist (33” to 35”) and finally to a size 6 hip (45” to 46”). And I have to say I think the fit is pretty good. I probably could have got away with a size 5 hip but figured I could shave a bit off if needed.
I must admit I was a little bit nervous of the dropped crotch (Should a 45 year old be wearing dropped crotches!!!) but actually I really like it.
Another feature I love about this pattern is the construction for the back. The top is cut in 2 halves joined with a centre seam but with a diagonal bottom edge. So when joined to the trousers it forms a really neat diagonal seam. I think it’s the little details like this that make a pattern stand out and Marilla Walkers patterns are great for just this reason.
Sewing wise the fabric handled like a dream, it’s always nice to sew with a good stable woven fabric. I was a little concerned the seams may be a bit bulky as most seams are finished with a Flat Felled method. So where one side of the seam edge is trimmed down and the other edge folded over encasing all raw edges, then top-stitched down. It actually turned out fine, I just made sure to give the seams a really good press.
I’m not going to lie, the fabric does crease a far bit after wearing, just like linen does but I’m fine with that. Also the fabric does feel a little bit stiff to begin with but I’ve made a pair of trousers before in this type of fabric and over time it does tend to soften with washing and wear.
This fabric really does lend itself well to trousers, I think some wide legged trousers would look fab in it. Dress wise it wouldn’t be suitable for something floaty but I think it would make a lovely Fiona Dress by Closet Case Patterns. It would also be perfect for a Utility style jacket, basically anything where you would use a medium weight denim or cotton drill type fabric.
For the finishing touch I found some wooden buttons on my local market which I think look great against the green. I’ve paired the jumpsuit with a pair of tan sandals for a dressier look although in reality I’m probably going to be wearing it with pumps for a super comfy outfit.
Thanks for reading and happy sewing.
Vicky (@sewlittlesparrow) xx