Work in progress - Clare Coat Sewing

Posted by Sarah Wadey
on October 24, 2018

So, Sewing has started on my Clare coat!  I began by constructing the outer shell, taking time to notch, grade and press seams when advised to in the (very thorough and easy to follow) instructions 

Clare coat pattern

This wool is so beautiful and presses like a dream. 

I steamed the wool before cutting out to reduce shrinkage when pressing with steam throughout the construction. You need to do a lot of pressing throughout in order to get a really professional smooth finish. 

I used a tailors ham and sleeve board to help press the various 3D and curves elements of the coat. I used lots of steam and a medium heat on the iron. A tailors clapper would have been so helpful to set the seams, this helps disperse the heat after pressing to ensure a super smooth press.

Tailors clapper

We are currently having some hand made by a local craftsman and we’ll have them available to use in our upcoming workshop and available to buy in store from early November! 

I’ve made several coats before but never had the pleasure of working with such luxurious fabric and I know this investment make will be a feature in my wardrobe for years to come! If you are considering using a high quality wool to make a coat I would truely recommend it. It presses so beautifully and the finish can be stunning- just follow these top tips: 

  • Take time to steam the fabric 
  • Large bladed, sharp scissors will make cutting through the wool easy
  • Don't skip the any of the interfacing - consider basting in sew in interfacing, calico or canvas to areas which need extra support 
  • Use pressing tools to help achieve a perfect finish
  • Use sew on stay tape to support and reinforce curved cut edges- ie the neckline.
So here is my finished shell!

clare coat in boiled wool

Next up it’s time for the lining...

Sarah x