Demystifying Fabrics: Jersey

Posted by Freya Gilbert
on February 17, 2019

We often get asked about the different type of jersey fabrics, and how to choose the right fabric for the right patterns. 

‘Jersey’ is a term used widly to define fabrics with a knitted construction, usually made using a knitting machine, as opposed to a woven fabric which is made on a loom. 

The feel of a jersey differs depending on the type of knit and the fibre content of the material.

Basic jersey is made in one of 2 knit structures:

Single jersey - this usually feels slightly thinner and has a V pattern on the front side. It can be very stretchy.

Double jersey - this usually looks the same on both sides and is often slightly thicker and more stable.

 

Single jersey compositions and types:

Viscose jersey  - often a viscose and elastane mix

Feel: Lightweight and drapey. Cold to the touch

Use: Tops, looser trousers and dresses with drape

Viscose jersey can roll at the edges and it is often very stretchy so not an ideal choice for absolute beginners.  The elastane in the fabric stops the fabric stretching out too much and helps it retain it's shape

Pattern Suggestion: The Mayfair Dress by Nina Lee £14.00

 

Polyester Jersey

Feel: Smooth and warm synthetic feel. Often very lightweight

Use: Close fitting garments

Often a cheaper choice, polyester jersey comes in a huge verity of colours and prints.  It is a great choice for sports wear, but can be prone to pilling and static.

Pattern Suggestion: The Action Pack by My Handmade Wardrobe, PDF £9, Paper Pattern £14.50

 

Cotton Jersey

Feel: Crisp but soft and slightly brushed warmer feel - even lighter weight versions

Use: Loose fitting t-shirts, dresses, nightwear

Cotton is cool and breathable and very comfortable to wear in warm weather.  However, 100% cotton knits can stretch out and become baggy, returning to their original dimensions less easily than those with added elastane (see next type)

Pattern Suggestion: Ebony Tee by Closet Case Patterns, £16

 

Cotton and Elastane Mix Jersey - usually around 3% elastane

Feel: Soft and warm with slightly brushed feel. Often a bit thicker than other jerseys

Use: Close fitting tops, dresses, leggings, underwear

This mix can roll at the edges when cut, but it is less stretchy and more stable than jersey made from just viscose. Rolling can be counteracted with iron on interfacing tape or spray starch

Pattern Suggestion: Cosy Jersey Dress by My Handmade Wardrobe, PDF £9, Paper Pattern £14.50

 

True Knit Jersey

Feel: Like traditional knitting it has more prominent and large stitches and is heavier weight

Use: Cardigans, jumpers and jumper dresses

True knit fabric is best finished with an overlocker as it can ladder and fray easily.  It also has a definite right and wrong side.

Pattern Suggestion: Blackwood Cardigan by Helens Closet

Or come along to our Cosy Cardigan workshop and use our exclusive pattern.  Check the listing for latest dates avalible.

 

French Terry/ loopback Jersey

Feel: Depends on composition but usually cotton and elastane is medium weight with a slightly cooler feel, or if mixed with some polyester content this adds softness and warmth. Has a looped back side and a smooth, often printed front side. Usually medium weight.

Use: lightweight sweaters, cardis, leggings/close fit joggers, casual dresses

Pattern Suggestion: Nora by Tilly and the Buttons, £14.50

 

Sweater knit– various compositions

Feel: soft and warm, often spongy and stable with less stretch. Often they have a loopy (loop-back) or brushed/fleecy (brushed-back/fleece-backed) side and are heavyweight.

Use: Sweatshirts and hoodies, joggers

Pattern Suggestion: Lindon Sweater by Grainline Studio, £16

 

Double Jersey compositions and types:

Ponti (Ponti di Roma)

Feel: stable with some stretch. Medium weight, good return to original dimensions. Usually a mix of polyester, viscose and elastane. Smooth with a slight shine.

Use: ideal for bottoms – Skirts, dresses, trousers, more formal garments

Ponti Roma is stable and perfect for beginners to work with.  It has some body and structure to the fabric, meaning it doesn't drape a lot.  Due to the polyester content, it can be prone to pilling.

Pattern suggestion: Coco Dress by Tilly and the Buttons, £14.50

 

Interlock jersey

Feel: thick and stable. Usually 100% cotton

Use: Baby and childrenswear, t-shirts, nightwear

100% cotton knits can stretch out and return to their original dimensions. Colours usually look more subdued and natural.

Pattern suggestion: Simple Tee by My Handmade Wardrobe, FREE downloadable PDF

 jersey fabric at crafty sew and so

Other Jerseys/Knits:

Quilted jersey – usually 2-3 layers bonded together to create a quilted effect.  Can be made from a combination of fiber contents.

Slub jersey –  has the same properties as single cotton jersey but with a sluby, textured feel and look

Yarn dyed stripes – yarn is dyed then knitted together in a stripe pattern which shows on both sides of the fabric, can be a variety of competition and weights.

Printed stripes- plain fabric is printed with a stripe pattern usually on one side only.  More common in heavy weight bases, and the printing ink can add a crispness and weight to the fabric.

Modal is a fibre which can be added to single jersey and gives a superior softness and warmth

Elastane, Lycra and spandex are the same thing – they are all an elastic fibre which add stretch and return to fabrics. High content can make fabrics shiny.

 

I hope that's helped clarify the jargon around jersey fabrics, and will help you choose the right fabric for your next project.

If you need any more advice just get in touch and don’t forget you can use our Swatch Service to try before you buy!